Impacted by COVID-19, luxury houses need to innovate to reveal their Spring/Summer 2021 collections. This summer, many houses confirmed that Spring/Summer Fashion Weeks would take place in New York, London, Milan and Paris. However, several houses announced their withdrawal from the Fashion Week calendar, opting instead for a smaller venue like Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, while others found alternatives to the traditional fashion show, like Moschino and Prada.
In July, the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion had cancelled traditional runways; so this explains the desire for houses to create marvellous physical shows for this Fashion Week. From September 28 until October 6, the luxury houses reveal their Spring/Summer 2021 collections during the Paris Fashion Week, still facing a global pandemic : 18 houses displayed physical shows and 45 decided to create digital fashion shows to fight against the virus. Overall, luxury houses all seem to have a desire to create collections that adapt to a “real” lifestyle, create actually wearable clothes.
Hermes
Leather, leather, leather!
During this years' Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week, the collections were filled with leather pieces (leather dresses, vests, skirts, leather coats and trench-coats), giving the collection a sexy look and leather the lead role.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, creative director for Hermes' Women collection since 2014, reveals a collection filled with pastel shades and white shirts along with blazer-pants co-ords. Flat hooves, that we thought were dedicated to our grandmas' garden, shall make a comeback next season along with platform espadrilles and mocassins.
Givenchy
On October 4, Matthew Williams, a 34-year-old American urban-wear designer, reveals his first collection as the artistic director for Givenchy since June. He later reveals his vision for the luxury house : "Very elegant and powerful and chic".
On the catwalk we spot neutral colours (black, white, beige), black and white tops, checked prints, horizontal stripes, a lot of pink, trench-coats, shoulder pads, leather gloves, oversized suits. The jewellery collection is inspired by the locks hung on the bridges of Paris by tourist lovebirds who later throw the key in the Seine to lock their mutual love. Magical pieces such as a transparent white coat covered in fuzzy tinsel, worn over a white laser-cut top were spotted during the fashion show.
Chloé
The luxury house mastered the art of layering in its new collection. It displayed embroidered pieces along with oversized collars and blazer jackets. The colour palette was again pinkish and neutral, but also filled with colourful pieces such as multicoloured striped prints and printed ponchos. Gladiator sandals and big belts were displayed by Chloé with elegance and style.
Isabel Marant
On October 1st, Isabel Marant presented its new collection in Paris in the Gardens of the Royal Palace. Dancers from La Horde bring the pieces to life. We gaze at leather pieces, floral jumpsuits, sequins dresses, asymmetrical silver tops and leather santiags. Padded shoulders and oversized fabrics are still a must-have for next year.
The collection is filled with bright colours and festivity, it spreads positivity and goods vibes for next season. The trendy colours for next Spring/Summer are pink, red and royal blue along with metallic pieces.
DIOR
Under a tent set in the heart of the Tuileries Garden, Dior builds a magical setting along with the help of artists such as Lucia Marcucci who created religious stained glass for the show followed by traditional Corsican songs sang by performers (Sequenza singers 9.3) in front of 300 guests only.
Dior affirms that this collection needs to be comfortable and bring positivity in a context of global pandemic. Indeed, it changed the habits and lifestyles of many individuals so the global concept of fashion had to adapt to the customers' new expectations. The house wanted to create a jacket using a sketch by Christian Dior himself in 1957 which was of a "paletot" : a jacket worn at home. Therefore, the idea was to create a jacket that would make one feel at home. The designers were also inspired by the looks of intellectuals working at home, such as Virginia Woolf and Susan Sontag.
Another massive trend that we spotted was the use of masculine pieces, whether used as an oversized shirt on high-waisted wide trousers or as a shirt-dress. Men's pieces evoke a relaxed and reassuring style. Nuanced colours, flowing dresses, large coats and the abundance of tie and dye contribute to this cozy atmosphere. Large embroidered camouflage jackets play on another register of protection along with timeless outfits, symbols of Dior.
Louis Vuitton
On October 6, the Louis Vuitton luxury house along with the help of Nicolas Ghesquière, fashion designer, presents the concept of this year's Spring/Summer collection which is to show a unisex collection. Long coats laid on the shoulders, sarouel-like trousers, oversized t-shirts, bermuda shorts, a lot of boyish oversized pieces. Costumes covered in silver sequins and coloured derbies were also displayed along with oversized bags.
Louis Vuitton closed a month of fashion-shows around the world with an intimate show in La Samaritaine. Invited to take place on the top floor of the famous Parisian department store, 200 people attended Nicolas Ghesquière’s vision of the future of fashion.
Balmain
In Balmain's collection, the 80s-90s are on the spot with fuchsia tailor-suits, tight-fitting cyclists, neon crop tops, denim bermudas which are displayed in a colourful show faithful to Olivier Rousteing. Trendy pieces such as leather, stripes or white shirts are also present in the Spring/Summer 2021 collection of the luxury house in an ancestral botanical garden, in the Jardin des Plantes in Paris.
Facing the pandemic, Balmain puts screens in the front rows, each representing an absent personality. They include celebrities such as Cara Delevingne, Anna Wintour, Claudia Schiffer, and Jennifer Lopez.
Chanel
Chanel celebrated the world of cinema and used a gigantic Hollywood sign to write the letters of the house. The glamorous world of cinema was always Chanel's friend with whom it could display its favorite red-carpet looks and ultra desirable wardrobe. For Chanel, after Covid-19, life will be a celebration.
On the catwalk we can spot black and white pieces, pink shades, bermuda shorts, many leather pieces along with the signature tweed fabric, royal blue and sequinned pieces.
During this years' Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week, the houses displayed colourful collections emerging new trends like candy pink shades and royal blue that will make a come back alongside sequins, check prints, flowery prints and stripes. Other must-haves for next season are leather pieces, masculine pieces, satin fabrics, bermuda shorts, trench-coats, coordinated sets, oversized bags and wide belts.
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